April 2016

Political movements on the second article show how Britains NHS is under threat and why junior doctors running out, this links to historical and cultural aspects because the NHS healthcare has been a huge part of our country for ages and it's facing extreme poverty, as reported in the media. The media has shown a variety of headlines which show the protest of junior doctors which are arguing over pay - this links back to when people used to protest in streets when they were disagreeing with the government like the suffragettes but just not extreme. I think that the media is 100% behind the doctor's decision and reports are in their favour, probably to scare the politicians and make them change.

The top one is stereotypical as women are mocked for talking on the phone to their friends for a long period of time and are over all always up for a chat, the article is obviously aimed at women and is quite factual rather than taking the mick. Some reader may genuinely find it interesting to read however it still links back to general stereotyping of women which may not be true but the media portrays it like that.

March 2016

This post is quite brief but it touches on the idea again of celebrity culture and pop culture which everyone is obsessed with, everyone wants to have the most best shoes, clothes and follow the famous faces of Instagram. Where Kendall Jenner received over 1 million likes on one of her instagram photos. This article is a silly article which is just that, showing two girls shopping but people care because of who they are. If it was just two ordinary girls going on a shopping trip together the media is obviously not going to report it however because Kendall and the Hadid girls have been branded as 'it' girls (by the press) they are suddenly a talking point for no reason.  

Feb 2016

These articles are about sex but in two different ways - The first is from fashion week where Rihanna showcased the Puma collection whilst performing in the sports wear brand in thigh high boots and a sweat shirt. This is a form of celebrity endorsement and is likely to drive the brands sales as it has been proved that celebrities are more likely to sell products rather than a model who nobody knows and can't relate to. Pop culture is huge in 2016 and people follow people like Rihanna on instagram and twitter. 

However Adam Johnson is in the papers for sex for a whole different reason and the media created a frenzy over his alleged sex affair with a minor, the media can quickly make or break you and the amount of negative press that Adam got through news paper reports was astonishing. The rape culture in Britain has been shown in the press a lot and we've become a nation who stands against sexual violence, especially since the attacks which happened in Rochdale. 

Jan 2016

Again I picked up on two different types of articles, one which is about the royal family and the other is revolved more around popular culture. In our culture we are obsessed with the royal family, I mean it's what we are brought up to love as British people, it's part of our heritage. The media writes about the royal family a lot and likes to cause tension and create a talking point among people, this article is drama orientated and actually makes the royal family seem like they're in a cheap reality show. It focuses on Kate (who the nation adores) and slams her in the limelight against rumors that she's being pushed out by other royals! Which probably isn't the case, international readers will also be interested in this piece and I think the royal family has become more based around pop culture rather than historical figures. 

The second article is a lot more sexist, which I find annoying. The phrase 'ample cleavage' his misogynistic and objectifies women, rather than the writer saying 'Amber Rose displays womanly curves' they decided to mention her breasts. This is an indication that the culture still sees women as objects and the media portrays them as things rather than beings. 

November 2015

This article is aimed at female readers and has a more cultural aspect to it rather than historical because our culture is orientated around consumerism and the buying of goods. As a nation we are obsessed with the latest trends and worry about the pressures of not fitting in with the right crowd, this article helps those who struggle with fashion and acting as their friend to help them on what the perfect 'it' bag is and how to wear it. 

It's also a form of advertising as the article shows links to stores where the reader can buy from, proving that we care what we look like and the nation has become very vain and find gratification when they receive compliments or looking good.

In regards to the consumer profile I looked at earlier this year, this indicates that people buy clothes so they look good and to receive compliments from others to confirm they have made the right choice.

October 2015

As looking at one particular topic, I then gathered more general information about the news from October to April looking at historical and cultural references.

I picked out two different headlines from Oct 2015 with two different subjects - one was political and the other was fashion. I wanted to see the tone of voice between the two articles based on the subject matter. Feminism in 2015 and 2016 is a huge thing and it continues to grow, I think the boob article is quite mocking and sexist the way it describes the bare back trend more tasteful and timelessly elegant yet when women do show their cleavage the media goes crazy. The Sun newspaper even had it's own cleavage rating in a double page spread. 

The other article is really serious in comparison and the tone is a lot more concerning rather than mocking and has a political agenda behind it as it is in relation to war. Especially since the rise of IS, this article I think is used to create a sense of security to the public and reassure them that this country will not go to war as our troops have been pulled out of Afganistan and people will remember the affects that war has had on this country in previous matters. In a cultural aspect this article is aimed to reassure it's reader and for people to feel better about this situation. 

Conclusion

Over the course of this Critical Journal project I have looked at a variety of images, videos and research regarding the 1960's and why it's still relevant today.

Through my blog I have gathered historical content however I have found it difficult to find specific 'historical' movements from exhibitions as I think that my book is more relevant to the 1960's as this era was all about consumerism, media and popular culture.

There was a lot which was historical that happened but the growth of the economy and popular culture meant that there was a lot to speak about regarding this subject. However, I have learnt when looking at history and context that the political and social changes that was happening during this time affected the way people dressed. Music was also a big influence and access to American music and black musicians which was listened to by the Mod's influenced how people's attitudes were shaped.

I found it helpful looking at the historical events including the end of the World War 2 and the introduction in the contraceptive pill, the baby boom of the 1940's which created the 1960's youth culture, the boost in the economy which all influenced people's attitudes, shopping and the way people dressed. Such as the contraceptive pill was a revolution for women in the UK and they shown this by the invention and push of the mini-skirt which proved their freedom, in comparison to the clothes they wore in the 1940's and 50's which was very restricted and had a certain look. YSL introduced the suit for women which revolutionized fashion and gave women an identity which they never had before.

The music industry was a growing phenomenon and artists like the Beatles, Rolling Stones and The Who had a big influence on how people dressed, the Beatles especially who represented the Mod's, they influenced trends such as the Beatle Boot which was a Chelsea boot with a cuban heel, something I have in my wardrobe from Topshop which proves that 60's trends are still being referenced to. John Lennon also helped push the 'granny glasses' which are the famous round glasses, in the psychedelic 60's the Beatles promoted men to wear sandals on one of their tours, something that had never been seen before. They changed from the face of Mod's to face of the Hippie and showcased bright colours, paisley print and flowing shirts for men's fashion.

Another thing for the music industry was the growth of music magazines such as 'Melody Maker' which posted about fashion and music, The Who also helped brand the Union Jack flag as a representation of British pop culture and the branding of Britishness.

The economy was growing and so was the fashion industry which made department stores grow, improving on the overall shopping experience which was for a consumer indulgence driven industry, people were shopping to enjoy it rather than shopping to get by (not like the war times.) It was the creation of visual merchandising and celebrity endorsement as famous faces were snapped shopping at local boutiques.

Political agenda was promoted through the Hippie trend which is probably one of the most re-visited look from the 1960's era, the hippies promoted peace and the end of violence. It was influenced by the Vietnam war and the hippies were anti-war. This meant that people went for a more natural look and grew their hair and swapped the mini for the maxi.

Over all, the 60's was an era of rebellion, identity and youth culture. Youth's had more money and was the first generation not to be forced to go to war, because there wasn't one. This meant that people had more access to shops, clubs and could enjoy the freedom that their parents couldn't. This was a time of experimentation and identity, to find themselves through fashion and music.  

The Retro Revolution

Mentioned in my book, since talking about the 1960's I also wanted to explore the whole idea of retro/vintage fashion and how people today are choosing second hand clothing over high street and designer.

If you walk down Oldham Street in Northern Quarter, Manchester, you'll find yourself in a retro shop frenzy and be shocked with how many vintage shops there are. Go and explore the inside of Afflecks Palace and be greeted by the old, yet welcoming smell of worn, old clothes. And somehow, this is appealing to customers.

But why are people so obsessed with vintage fashion? And how does it make them feel? I did some research and found the reasons why vintage fashion is becoming more popular than high-street stores.

Quality - As discussed in my book (briefly) that vintage clothes can have a quality that you might not find in high-street stores, maybe designer brands can be different as you expect quality to come from something which has cost you an arm and a leg. However, if you buy a one of piece from a vintage shop you're probably going to be ensured that you're going to get the best quality because it hasn't been mass made.

Uniqueness - One of pieces mean that the things you purchase are going to be one of a kind, with trends dominating fashion magazines and mainstream fashion the main thing people follow, it's quite hard to walk down the high-street and not find the same piece of clothing with just a different brand name attached to it. Whereas vintage clothes has that exclusivity that you don't experience from high street stores.

Stories - I think people are drawn into the idea of vintage shopping because the clothing has a history to them. It's likely that the clothes you buy have been passed down and have been worn by someone else before (obviously)! And I think the idea of passing down an item and re-inventing a piece of clothing that was from the 60's or 40's makes people feel a sense of pride because their giving that historical item a new life.

I think vintage shopping is a huge part of the fashion industry but is more low-key than the high street and designer consumer driven side of the fashion industry. Maybe the industry needs to focus on the one of pieces and the history/quality that they get from vintage shopping, which is obviously what people love as this business seems to be continuously growing.

image from http://www.huffingtonpost.com/rebecca-emily-darling/five-reasons-vintage-clothes_b_6432122.html

Mods and Rockers 1964

I watched a Documentary Mods and Rockers which was shown on BBC 4 (not too sure on the specific date as I got it from YouTube, will post direct link below).

This film looked at the youth rebellion between the subcultures during 1960's which was when a lot of rivalry between the Mods and Rockers happened, this explores why they hated one another and whether this rebellion was to do with the youth alone or whether other things played a part.

I am going to discuss subcultures in my presentation as I have studied this subject briefly before and find it really interested how people divided themselves based on their music taste, likes and dislikes and their fashion choices, also what their style says to other subcultures and the rest of the public.

There was a baby boom due to people coming home from the war and babies being born in the late 40's and 50's, this means that the teenagers from that baby boom were the youth of the 1960's. This film looked at the fights which happened at sea-side resorts  including Clacton-on-sea between the Mods and Rockers.

The Mods famously drove around on their scooters which they saw in Italian cinema films, they also got some of their style inspiration from the Italians themselves. The Rockers were a little more rough around the edges and drove motor cycles and were kitted out in heavy leather jackets and studs.

I learnt that the Teddy Boys were the first subculture to emerge from the working class background, the Bikers were next which found their freedom on motor bikes. The Bikers also identified themselves through music which came from America which was Rock n Roll. Younger people were working and the economy had picked up since the end of the second World War, meaning youngsters had more money to spend on things they wanted.

The Bikers were known for their greasy appearance but in 1954 a new generation of subculture was born who didn't want to be a part of that world, the Modernists were introduced which is what they called themselves hence why the word Mod was born. They were a clean and up to date, they showcased the latest thing. They were into made to measure clothes and music, meaning they had the best of the best, which was very elitist. 1963 was the age of the Mod.

So why did these two subcultures hate one another?

The Mods rode scooters and the Rockers rode bikes, which one Rocker describes as he 'looked down' on people who rode scooters because they were a lot smaller and slow. However to the Mod's it was seen as the urban motorcycle.

Clacton-on-sea was where the trouble between the two tribes began and people still refer to the place as the home of the Mod and Rockers rivalry. In 1964, this was where there was a huge fight, Mods were shouting abuse to the Rockers and it caused more tensions between the groups. The Mods vanalisim and 90 teenagers were arrested, in an interview on the news from the day after the event, a Mod is interviewed and when asked where he was from, Mod or Rocker? He replies 'Look at the way I'm dressed, Mod.' I have the feeling that the Mods were quite arrogant and cocky, because they thought of themselves as having the most up to date clothes, music etc.

The papers made it sound like the new enemy was the youths and published possible punch up's for the next fights between the Mods and Rockers which is serving their purpose to try and start a war between the two gangs. The papers figured that if they were fighting themselves, they weren't fighting the people in charge.

Don't get me wrong, the 1960's had a lot of violence including in the urban areas of the town however causing riots at seaside towns where family's are is what people were shocked about the most. Not to my surprise at all, the media lapped it up. A Mod being interviewed explained that 'reporters gave us money to cause a disturbance, no matter how big or minor. Cause a disturbance, a pound for the Rockers or vice versa.' The press didn't report true things, only small things they reported were true which probably made the tension worse.

'The Mods were hooligans who dressed smarter than their parents'  and everyone in the US, Germany and Japan wanted a piece of Mod, due to the huge impact of the 'British Invasion.'

The Mods and Rockers style has still lived on in 2016 - there is still people wearing Levi Jeans and a leather jacket and similar to the Mods.. why? Because it looks smart and timeless.

'The 1960's has a glow around it, but there's something magical about the 1960's. A coming together of popular music and social changes.'

The kick started a cultural revolution and that's something to celebrate, which they will hold a place in 1960's history.

Hairstyles and Influences

I'm going to cover this topic in my book as well as online but I think there is a historical aspect to this because things have influenced the way these beauty trends started including celebrities, art and music.


Movies 

Movies were a big influence and New Wave cinema alongside Italian films were a hit in the 60's, Italian films actually made a reference to the Mod look as people used to ride vespas and they got their inspiration for dressing from these films.

As well as this, the Sasoon cut was introduced when the film Rosemary's baby came out, which Mia Farrow played the lead.

Music

I learnt that music influenced a lot of the 'youth culture' especially during the 50's when there was the time of rock n roll, in the 60's The Beatles were famous for creating the 'mop top' which can still be found on some boys today who still take inspiration for this particular style.

In the later half of the 60's, the half that most people remember, when the hippies were born, there was a lot of social change and political activism which lead to people leaving their hair longer and more natural . 


Famous styles which were adapted from this era, I found were: 

The Beehive 

Wore famously by Amy Winehouse, the beehive hairstyle is a classic up-do which is still referred to in 2016. It was to represent the change from the 50's to the 60's and was created in America, it was worn by the masses as well as celebrities including Audrey Hepburn and Dusty Springfield. 

The Bouffant 

This style was accessible and pretty straightforward, it was popular with older and the younger generation and was created by using rollers and flicking your hair out and the ends, from the 50's to the 60's the bouffant had grown bigger. Jackie Kennedy wore this look as well as Dusty Springfield (who also loved the beehive as mentioned)! It involved a lot of hair spray and was quite hard to manage. I can see this trend being more popular for the older woman rather than representing youth culture as I think it's too prim and proper however my research did indicate that it could be from America in the 1960's compared to the UK. 

Sharp Cuts and Bobs:

I think this was more popular in the UK and was more to do with the Mod movement and the influence of designer Mary Quant who had a lot of impact in the fashion and beauty world. The short Sassoon crop was very sharp and the bob was more popular, which the mods are famous for. 

Afro hair: 

I found it good to see that African American beauty was being recognised during this time and represented a big social movement, thanks to the American Civil Rights movement. This was noticed by Jazz musicians who left their hair natural to show that they were proud of their black roots and identity. 

I just want to comment on the magazine which is for black people and the name is 'Ebony' which was probably a classic black name during that time, there is a section for wigs which are still popular now with afro-americn hair, there is a section about the 'richest negro family' and 'what ike thinks about negros' - although black people had more freedom during the 1960's, the world 'negro' is still being loosely thrown around (by white and black people) which suggests that racism was still relevant. Although that this magazine uses that word, it does imply that black people had begun to take charge of their identity and would rather call themselves 'negros' than a white a person. It does show how far things have chanced politically and socially since the 1950's which was probably anti-black and freedom was embraced by all races. 


images from http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1960s-hairstyles/

A Visit to the Costume Museum

I booked an appointment to see the curator, Rosie who works at the museum who said she would help me with some things regarding the 1960's. I was able to describe a number of items to her and she pulled them out so I could have a proper look at them and see real-life garments from designers back then.

This suit from Courreges, implemented the mini-skirt and I was shocked to see that it was longer than I thought it was going to be, the way the mini-skirt was projected in the media during the time seemed like the skirt was a lot shorter than it was. However, this was by designers which maybe found it hard to adjust to the new statement skirts and many girls did still make things at home, where they probably made the skirt shorter.

This dress is by Emilo Pucci and shows the classic shift dress which was introduced during that time, the colours are noticeably bright just like the skirt and blazer which in the previous outfit. The pattern is very extroverted and could be seen as quite innovative compared to the designs which were seen in the 1950's. I can see why the shift dress was so popular and why people loved the garment so much because it would fit any body type and would flatter all people. I can also see why this would appeal to the youth culture as it makes a statement against the things that were seen before and the design is very loud. I noticed that with Pucci, there are small imprints of their logo in the fabric which I thought was quite unusual but shows how people used brands to show off their wealth and is a sign of status symbol. The label also shows that it would be made for Saks Fifth Avenue which is in the US and proves that elements of the swinging 60's were prominent in the USA. 

I couldn't find where this garment was from as I tried to lookup the labels and nothing came up which is quite disappointing, it reminds me of the YSL dress which he designed for his Mondrain collection which featured block colours and inspired art and fashion to collide. I can understand that other designers and boutiques would copy this look - as the label says 'boutique' which implies it might not have been mass produced in comparison to a designer brand. It could be featured in boutiques on the high street, just like we have today where there are knock off copies. It shows how designers influenced new trends and how people were interested in the fashion world, the fit is also similar to the Pucci dress and the shape is quite basic and non fitting which means it's quite versatile for the average consumer and looks like there can be a lot of movement, the fabric was quite heavy which indicates that people in this era were experimenting with different fabrics. 

Again this is by Courreges and there is a similarity which the bright colours, Rosie told me that this was quite classic in the 1960's and girls wanted to stand out from the crowd, the pockets are quite common for that era as well however in my research I hadn't found anything to back up this point. The fabric was really heavy and I held it over my head and it was quite hard to move in, I couldn't see this doing well with young, youth generation who wanted to go out dancing etc. It's shape was the same I had seen throughout looking at the dresses, I believe it was a really popular design amongst women during that time. It did remind me of something a mod would wear. 

Janice Wainwright worked for Simon Massey and her clothes were described as 'bright, youthful and feminine' which this dress clearly shows. It's different to the other dresses I looked at and the shape/pattern is a lot more feminine compared to the other dresses I looked at, the pleats make it more girly and the way it comes in a little bit at the waists refers back to Dior back in the 1950's. It's interesting to see where the designers have got their references is from, however the pattern is very 60's and looks futuristic and unusual in comparison to the standard floral prints people may be used to. 

This garment is late 60's early 70's and is a dress with a waistcoat and blazer, the material is very very heavy and is by the designer Pucci - as you can see the signature 'pucci' logo is printed into the fabric to show the brand off. I learnt that Marylin Monroe was a fan of this brand and it designed couture and ready to wear in the UK and America. This shows the shift from classic, modern 1960's style including block colours and simple statement colours and then crazy patterns which went well on to the 1970's. The dress is longer and this marks the lengthening of the hemline when people decided that they preferred maxi skirts rather than mini-skirts. Although I do understand that Pucci is famous for their bold prints - which is probably why they stood out so much in a once black and white Western world.

It was interesting to actually get to see the garments from the 1960's and get up close and personal, being able to feel the fabrics and pick them up to see the texture, wearability and design was a great way to understand the 1960's and how it evolved. The rail shows the early 1960's to the late 70's and the two final pieces show a shift in design, starting from the shift dress, then introducing a blazer and skirt, followed by a completely different silhouette and then a maxi dress.

I think the media defiantly played an important role in what people wore and pop culture was growing, people were influenced by celebrity culture, music and art.